The Island Doesn't Empty Out Anymore: What's Actually Open in Palm Beach This Summer

The Island Doesn't Empty Out Anymore: What's Actually Open in Palm Beach This Summer

  • August 20, 2026

It's 6:40 on a Wednesday in August. The temperature has finally dropped out of the mid-90s, and the walk from a condo off Cocoanut Row to Royal Poinciana Plaza takes maybe six minutes. The terrace at Tutto Mare faces west, so the light off the Intracoastal is doing something worth watching. By 7:30 there's live music somewhere on the property. A short walk home passes The Vineta Bar, where a nightcap is not out of the question.

None of that sentence would have made sense two summers ago. Ask most longtime residents when Palm Beach shuts down and you'll get a specific, confident answer: Easter. The snowbirds fly north, the restaurants that depend on them go quiet or close outright, and the island becomes a place you drive through on your way to somewhere with air conditioning and a crowd. That answer is no longer fully true, and it's not true for a reason that has nothing to do with the weather. It's true because the company that owns the island's central retail property made a business decision to treat summer residents as a real customer instead of a rounding error.

The bet behind an open plaza

Royal Poinciana Plaza, the 1957 John Volk-designed retail center on Royal Poinciana Way, has historically operated the way most of Palm Beach's commercial core does: full engine in winter, quiet garden in summer. For 2026, its owner, WS Development, is running a named summer platform across the property from July through September. Call it what the property itself calls it: the Royal Riviera season.

That's a marketing label, but it sits on top of three concrete things that happened this year, not a slogan applied to an otherwise empty calendar.

The first is Tutto Mare, which opened at the plaza in the first week of January. It is currently the only restaurant in the Town of Palm Beach that sits directly on the Intracoastal, a gap in the island's dining map that had persisted for years despite waterfront homes lining most of the shoreline. The interiors come from Gabby Karan de Felice, daughter of designer Donna Karan, working alongside the team from the Hamptons favorite Tutto il Giorno, a useful reference point for anyone who already knows that restaurant from Sag Harbor summers. The plaza stays open until 9:30 each night, which means a walk-in after an evening out is realistic in a way Worth Avenue rarely allows on a summer weeknight.

The second is the Vineta Hotel, newly renovated a short walk from the plaza. Coco's, its Mediterranean restaurant, opens onto a courtyard built for exactly this kind of evening. The Vineta Bar next door is styled as a nod to the old Leopard Lounge, the cocktail room island regulars will remember from the property's earlier life, now rebuilt inside the restored historic interior.

The third is Glazer Hall, the 400-seat performing arts venue occupying the space where the Royal Poinciana Playhouse once stood. The Playhouse closed in 2004 and sat dark for roughly two decades before this redevelopment. This summer it's running programming through the season, including a Summer Jazz Series and one-off events like an August 5th concert marking the 125th anniversary of Louis Armstrong's birth. Thursday evenings, live jazz plays over dinner elsewhere on the plaza grounds, from 6 to 9 p.m., so a weeknight visit doesn't require picking a single venue and committing to it.

None of these three things is remarkable in isolation. What's notable is that they landed in the same six-month window on the same three-block stretch of the same street. A theater dark for twenty years, a restaurant filling a gap that existed for decades, and a bar built inside a historic room that had been sitting unused. That's not a coincidence of timing. It's a property owner reading the resident calendar correctly and building for it.

What's new this month, specifically

August has brought two more additions worth knowing about, neither of them dining.

What Detail Why it matters to residents
Bottega Veneta Nearly 3,000 square feet at Royal Poinciana Plaza, the brand's first Florida location to carry its fine jewelry line A single new tenant taking up roughly 1.7 percent of the plaza's total 180,000 square feet signals how much weight WS Development is putting on this one signing
Church Mouse coffee counter Grab-and-go coffee from West Palm Beach's Pumphouse Coffee Roasters, no food or seating, proceeds benefiting Bethesda-by-the-Sea Episcopal Church's charitable outreach A genuinely useful mid-walk coffee stop that didn't exist before this summer, tied to a charitable purpose rather than a retail one

The Bottega Veneta number is worth sitting with. Nearly 3,000 square feet sounds modest until you remember the entire plaza is 180,000 square feet and has operated at or near full occupancy for years. A single tenant claiming that much space, and doing it with a jewelry collection previously unavailable anywhere else in the state, is not a filler lease. It's the kind of commitment a landlord only gets when the tenant believes the year-round traffic supports it.

The other half of the routine: the Lake Trail

None of this replaces the thing residents were already doing every morning, which is walking or biking the Lake Trail. The trail runs 5.5 miles along the western edge of the island, hugging the Lake Worth Lagoon, and it's the piece of daily infrastructure that makes the rest of this island livable in a way that has nothing to do with restaurant openings.

It's mostly flat, capped at a 10 mph speed limit, and closed to motorized transport, which is why it works equally well for a jogger, a parent walking a stroller, and someone easing back into biking after a long break. Landmarks along the way carry real history rather than staged charm: the Flagler Museum at Whitehall, the giant kapok tree with its octopus-like roots near the museum grounds, the original 1894 Bethesda-by-the-Sea church building, since converted into a private home and unrelated to the active Episcopal parish of the same name elsewhere on the island, and the Duck Nest, built in 1891 and generally considered the oldest standing house on the island. Further along, the trail passes the Palm Beach Town Docks, a public marina that has berthed yachts since the 1940s with the West Palm Beach skyline visible across the water, before terminating near the Sailfish Club at the island's north end.

Food stops near the route haven't changed and don't need to. Pizza Al Fresco, tucked into the historic Via Mizner courtyard off Worth Avenue, remains the reliable lunch stop. Green's Pharmacy, the old-school lunch counter on North County Road, still serves the milkshake regulars keep coming back for. Celis Juice Bar, inside Royal Poinciana Plaza itself, works as a smoothie stop before or after a ride, and now sits a few doors down from the plaza's newer dinner options.

A Tuesday and a Saturday that didn't used to exist

Put the two halves together and a working weeknight now looks like this:

  1. Ride or walk the Lake Trail in the cooler morning hours, stopping at Bradley Park or the Sea Isles Estates Pier Park if the loop runs long.
  2. Grab a coffee from the Church Mouse counter or a smoothie from Celis on the way back.
  3. In the evening, walk to the plaza for dinner on the water at Tutto Mare, or a courtyard meal at Coco's if the terrace is booked.
  4. Catch whatever's playing at Glazer Hall, ticketed or the Thursday jazz running through dinner service.
  5. Finish at The Vineta Bar, a few minutes from home either way.

That's a full day that starts and ends within the same zip code, in August, without a single stop that existed in this form a year ago. The old assumption that Palm Beach goes quiet from May to October was never really about the weather. It was about what was open. Change what's open and the assumption stops holding, at least for the stretch of the island closest to Royal Poinciana Way.

Whether that shift extends to the rest of the island's calendar, or stays concentrated on one property, is worth watching over the next few summers. For now, it's real, it's dated, and it's the kind of local detail that only shows up if you're paying attention to what's actually happening here rather than repeating what used to be true.

If you're weighing a move to the island, or already call it home and are curious what a property near this stretch might be worth in today's market, Kirsten Kopp Real Estate knows this street the way a resident does. Request a private consultation whenever you're ready to talk specifics.

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